Street Food Malaysia – NASI KERABU + Malay Food Tour in Kelantan, Malaysia!

Street Food Malaysia – NASI KERABU + Malay Food Tour in Kelantan, Malaysia!


– Good morning, I hope
you’re having an amazing day. It’s Mark Wiens. I’m in Kota Bharu in the
Kelantan State of Malaysia. This is a state that’s known
for their culture, their art, and especially Kelantanese unique food which is incredibly delicious. Today we are gonna go on a
Kelantanese Malay food tour. We’re gonna eat some of the
iconic dishes of Kelantan. We’re gonna start with what
is one of the most iconic, one of the most well-known dishes, especially for breakfast in Kelantan. (upbeat music) We just arrived to the first restaurant. This place is called Nasi Kerabu Panji and they serve nasi kerabu which is one of the most popular dishes especially it’s known as a
breakfast dish in Kelantan. You can see the smoke just
pouring from the grill, the meaty aroma. They have a line up here. You choose what you want
on top of your rice. And yeah. Nasi kerabu, this is one of the greatest
dishes from Kelantan. (speaking foreign language) – You want? (speaking foreign language) – Yes, please. Yes, please. (upbeat music) And I think it’s also one of the most beautiful
dishes in Malaysia and maybe in the world. Nasi means rice, kerabu means salad. And so it’s always rice salad. One of the common
versions is the blue rice which is colored with
butterfly pea flowers. But they also have yellow rice. They have just white rice. They have other versions of rice. And then I chose a fish which is called, which is called ikan percik which is like, it’s like a coconut milk
barbecue sauce to go with it. I’ve had nasi kerabu a
couple times in Malaysia but this is my first time in Kelantan. So I am overjoyed and can
hardly contain my excitement. Let’s begin. And then Joel got a plate
with the kambing bakar which is grilled. He said lamb but I believe it’s goat. Or it could be lamb. First mix in with the rice and salad. You could see how vibrant
that color, the rice is. Let’s just taste the
rice and the salad first because that is what nasi kerabu is and then after that move
in for other things. (upbeat music) – [Mark and Joel] Mmm! (laughing) – Oh, that is superb. It’s so herbaceous, refreshing. – Yeah.
– What herb is that? Maybe, possibly Vietnamese coriander. You taste a little bit of fishiness. The coconut, the coconut in there just also magnifies the flavor. I’m gonna squeeze on the lime, mix that around again. Okay, I’ll go in for that chili. That’s minced fish I
believe plus grated coconut. Oh yeah, as soon as you break into that you can see the texture. There’s so much grated coconut in there. (Joel laughing) – That’s a bite, man. – Yeah. You can not only taste the coconut but you can feel the grated coconut. Oh and that sour squeeze of lime that also enhances everything. Scoop out the salted egg. For the fish, I believe
it’s like a mackerel. Take off a piece of the side of the fish. That coconut milk, it’s
like a barbecue sauce, under the rice salad. (upbeat music) Mmm! Oh, that fish is incredibly smoky! And then it’s rich from the coconut cream. Oh, I wasn’t expecting
the fish to be that smoky. You gotta taste the fish. – And I just tried the first bite of meat, probably it’s goat. And I had the same reaction. It’s unbelievably smoky. Let’s taste each other’s. (upbeat music) Yeah. That tastes like honey barbecue sauce. The goat is great but I think I really
love the fish the best. That’s such a smoky flavor and that barbecue sauce, that coconut milk
barbecue sauce is so rich. Stick this in the middle of my rice. And what I saw one of the guys do who was eating across the table from us, is he takes the cracker and
just crunches it on top. So you add another dimension of texture. This just might be a pro tip, pro move. I do wanna get some of that
pickled garlic in there too. Or maybe, I don’t know
if I can break this. I might just have to bite into it. Okay, but we’ll save that for next. Get a little bit of that
salted egg going in there. (upbeat music) Solid mix of flavors. The smoky fish, the sambal, the salad, the herbaceousness. I’m gonna try that pickled garlic. Mmm! Ooh! That’s wonderful though. That’s like another blast of
flavor early in the morning. Washing that down with some teh tarik. (upbeat music) And there’s one more thing
that we gotta try here. I’m not sure if I can remember the name. I think it’s called nasi tumpang. But it’s like a cone-shaped, a very long cone-shaped, there’s rice in here with different layers wrapped into a banana leaf. Look at the size of this stuff. It’s like a parking cone.
– It can stand on its own. – You could use this as a parking cone. (Joel laughing) Okay, we’re gonna unwrap, take this out. Oh no, I think I messed up a layer. Oh, we lost the top hat. Okay, I’m just gonna. Look at how beautiful. Okay, I cheated a little bit. Put it back together. Oh, that is beautiful. An entire cone of rice. You can even see a shrimp in there. You can definitely see the grains of rice but mushed together at the bottom. I can see egg like an omelet and a shrimp in there,
in that mid section. Then more rice, then some shredded meat. And then the rice gets more and more
condensed and compressed as you go to the top of it. I think I’m just gonna go
straight in for the center there. Get some of the rice. Gonna try this. Oh yeah, that is like
an omelet and shrimp. This is like a tiny little–
– Look at the construction. – [Mark] I got some of the omelet I think and a shrimp in that bite. – [Mark And Joel] Mmm. – Peppers, did you get any peppers? I got a whole–
– Maybe that was in yours. Mmm, I taste coriander seed though. – Okay. – I taste coriander seed. I don’t think it’s glutinous rice though. It’s like regular rice just compressed. It’s kinda just like a takeaway, natural takeaway, all in
one little cone packet. That was an incredible
way to begin this day. This Kelantanese food tour in Kota Bharu. Nasi kerabu, it’s such a beautiful dish. It’s so incredibly delicious. And the next place is one
that really specializes, is known for their kambing bakar, which is the grilled goat, nasi kerabu. Yes. So breakfast number two. What a dish, dude. – I couldn’t believe it. The texture lover’s dream, really. I got some remnants on the lens here. – Kerabu, some salad in the lens. We’ve got some rice salad in the lens. (Joel laughing) Okay the next place is called
Jijah’s, Jijah’s Nasi Kerabu. (upbeat music) Something that’s amazing about Kota Bharu is that it does have a
central downtown area that’s a real city but then as soon as you
get off the main roads it’s so quiet. You go right immediately
into the countryside. It’s still the city but it’s really spread out. People have rice fields, there’s cows, there’s coconut trees. It’s just a fruit tropical paradise. Right now we’re pretty close to the ocean. But this restaurant is
right in the neighborhood. What a relaxing calming setting. Again, you can see the smoke
pouring out of the chimney from the grilling meat. We’re here again to eat nasi kerabu. Nasi kerabu. (speaking foreign language) They’re so friendly. All the entire family is welcoming us. The key things here is that
they serve usually yellow rice which is flavored with turmeric
or colored with turmeric. (loud pounding) (upbeat music) Thank you.
– Yeah, you’re welcome. – There’s a very strong
and almost mandatory reason why you should try multiple
plates of nasi kerabu because they’re so different, and this one is totally different from the last version that we tried. Starting with the rice
which is yellow rice which I believe is colored with turmeric. It’s just a very very light
almost transparent yellow. Then they put on the salad which I believe is mostly
Vietnamese coriander or rau ram or laksa leaf. They add on the budu sauce
which is the fermented, I forgot to also mention that that’s also a necessary component of nasi kerabu is the budu,
the fermented anchovy sauce. And then their specialty
here is the kambing bakar which is the grilled goat meat. Nasi kerabu number two. You’re ready? – Yes, I’m excited. (upbeat music) (Joel laughing) Oh. – [Mark] That one you can really taste the Vietnamese coriander herb in there.
– Creamy. – That’s rich, really coconutty. It’s sweet but the sweetness
does complement everything. Okay, we’ve gotta move in for that meat. You can see there’s bones still on it. This meat looks incredible. Perfectly grilled. It’s so aromatic. And it feels tender in your fingers. (upbeat music) Oh, wow. (laughing) It is sweet but you taste
the caramelized smokiness. There’s like cumin in there, lemongrass, maybe even coconut milk. What an amazing range of flavor. I’m gonna get everything in one. Again scoop out the salted egg. Oh, that just slid out this time. I’m gonna mix in with the meat with the salad and rice, all in one massive bite of nasi kerabu. (laughing) That’s a size, oh I lost some, sizeable bite of nasi kerabu. At the tips of my fingers. (upbeat music) Oh, yep. I got a bone. (upbeat music) Everything together with
that creamy salted egg, the herbs, the coconut cream, the coconut cream curry
and the shredded coconut, and the meat. What a bite to remember forever. – [Joel] Don’t explode everywhere. – Another thing that’s
very common to do is take, I think they’re fish crackers and just crunch them up and eat this all together as well, mix in, and after this bite I will go in for the chili with the fish and grated coconut, more coconut. I really love this
component of nasi kerabu, the chili stuffed with fish and coconut. It’s really an amazing, fruity,
tropical coconutty delight. The crackers just sort of
disintegrate into the rice and the sambal. Mmm. You can eat the stem and all. Oh. (laughing) I want a whole plate of those. (upbeat music) Wow. That was just spectacular. And again you can just
kinda fold over your paper when you are finished, completed. And then for dessert, Ying got this little
banana leaf wrapped packet. Not sure exactly what it is. Oh, there’s a whole bunch of shredded coconut in there, yeah? It feels like glutinous
rice on the bottom. Oh, there’s three layers. Whoa, that’s beautiful. Again, the triple layering. The glutinous rice, looks like beans in the center, and then shredded coconut. Not actually totally sure what this is but I think I’m gonna just try to get a little bit of everything. It’s very very sticky. Whoa. Maybe either sugar or honey. Some of the beans and
then some of the coconut. It really just completely
sticks to your fingers too. (upbeat music) – Mmm! Mmm! Beans! – Yup. That’s beans on the inside.
– Mmm! – That’s just pure shredded coconut. And you’ve got three different textures, whole different textures. The glutinous sticky
rice, the creamy beans, the crunchy but light yet fluffy coconut. It was incredibly amazing and
just talking with the family, the owner, it’s still family-owned. They’re so nice. They’re so friendly. It’s an amazing amazing place. (speaking foreign language) (upbeat music) (speaking foreign language) What an incredible family. They were so nice, so
friendly, so welcoming. That was the true display
of Kelantanese culture. And just blown away by
that incredible food, the nasi kerabu. That was unbelievably delicious. From here, we are driving back
into the center of Kota Bharu and there is what is one of
the most beautiful markets. One of the main, it’s the main local market of Kota Bharu, known for their local food and everything. So we’re gonna go check it out. We’re gonna eat some more food there. We are on our way and I can’t wait to explore the market. (upbeat music) We made it to the market. This is an amazing painting
mural representing Kelantan. Stink beans, one of my
personal favorite ingredients, budu which is the fermented
anchovy fish sauce, there’s chilies. Three beautifully powerful,
delicious ingredients that just represent Kelantan. This market is called, officially I believe Siti Khadija Market. And you walk around, there’s
vegetables, there’s fruits. There’s everything you could possibly, all the ingredients
you could possibly need to make Kelantanese food. But then you come into the center and this is the iconic center. It’s a big, not really, sort of a dome with
natural light coming in. How many sides are there to this, octagon? Well more than an octagon maybe. But every side is painted
a different color. I believe that you can also
get some cooked food here too which we’ll try to find as well. Tempoyak, oh yeah. Okay, I just located two
of my favorite ingredients, pickled stink beans and
tempoyak, fermented durian. (upbeat music) Ying immediately spotted some mushrooms. This is a mushroom that’s common throughout
the Malay Peninsula which are dried, which is really good in a curry that we’re gonna bring back home. (upbeat music) Okay, moving up to the next level. And I think this is
where the food court is and then you can also get a view over the entire market as well. Step upstairs and immediately you’re greeted by a bunch of curry stalls. The aromas, the spices,
the curry paste, the fish. In Bangkok, yes! (laughing) (speaking foreign language) On the tablet, they’re
watching one of our videos. So we stopped to get some laksam here and he also has laksam and laksa. But in here it’s the same thing, just the noodles are different and the laksam has more of
a wide noodle that he uses. (upbeat music) (speaking foreign language) Oh, so it’s the different noodles. Laksa and laksam.
– Yes. This laksam, this laksa. – Ah, so it’s the noodle size.
– Yes. – Ah, okay. (speaking foreign language) Okay, I got my bowl of laksam. I’m gonna sit here. Everyone is so friendly. (laughing) Hello. You can see the laksam. It’s coconut milk-based gravy. There’s a lot of herbs in here. Again, there’s bean sprouts. I believe there’s the rau
ram, the Vietnamese coriander. And these are the noodles,
the laksam noodles. It’s like a thick noodle
roll which they cut, which they slice into a roll up. That’s a full noodle roll. Mmm! Mmm! Oh, wow. Again, it’s all about the herbs. The coriander, the bean sprouts. And then those noodles. It’s like so thick that it’s almost like, it almost tastes like compressed rice. But they are very smooth. They go down really really easily. The next step now that I’ve tasted it is to add some of the sambal. This is some of the
shrimp paste with chilies. Sambal belacan. Okay. This is the shrimp paste sambal. Perfect. I’ll stick with that for now. Mix it in with that coconut milk. Mmm! Mmm! But the coconut curry itself is very mild. It’s not spicy. But then you do add that sambal which, that’s delicious. And those noodles, the laksam noodles they sort of disintegrate in your mouth. I’m just gonna drizzle on one more spoon of the sambal, oh yeah. (upbeat music) Mmm! Mmm! Mmm! Spicy, but that Vietnamese
coriander, that’s the highlight. The laksa leaf. It just provides such a
vibrancy and an herbal taste to the entire dish. Very good. (speaking foreign language) – These guys are cheering as Mark douses the sambal on his dish. It’s such an awesome situation here. – It’s such a cool situation. Such an amazing place. Mmm, mmm! Oh, and by the way. One more fact, unique
fact, interesting fact. Kelantan is known to use, they use coconut milk, they
use coconut all over Malaysia. But in Kelantan, Kelantanese Malay cuisine is known to use the most coconut milk and the most coconut in their cuisine out of all of Malaysia. So get ready to eat some coconut
which is a very good thing when you visit Kelantan. (speaking foreign language) And again, what made it even
better than just the good food, is the people and the friendliness. As we were going up the stairs I saw a lady who was selling all sorts of different
Kelantanese desserts. There’s a couple of very well
known desserts I wanna try. Hello! I think that’s the one right there. Akok?
– Yes. – [Mark] Akok. Oh, this one. – [Vendor] Tahi itik. You call tahi itik. – Tahi itik.
– Yes. – [Mark] Okay. – [Vendor] Tahi itik, jala mas. – [Mark] Jala mas. Alright. – [Vendor] Okay, three only? – I have three different things, okay. One of the main Kelantanese desserts that I wanted to try is called akok. When you pick it up it’s kinda like, kinda floppy and kind of, you can’t tell if it’s egg but you can also almost feel that it’s kinda juicy at the same time. I’m not totally sure, I know
there’s coconut milk in it. You’re not totally sure what to expect before you take a bite. So I’m gonna take a bite. (upbeat music) It’s like custardy. – Yeah, very soft. – Wow, it’s like a solid custard almost. There’s not like a bready body to it. It’s like an egg coconut custard I think. I think that’s what it is and then just caramelized on the outside. (upbeat music) Yeah, that tastes like
a griddle-fried custard. I like it. And then the very friendly
lady selling the dessert, she also recommended this, it’s like a dessert snack pack. (upbeat music) Wow. Yeah, that is sweet. You can taste the texture of it. I don’t know if that cornmeal or semolina. (upbeat music) Another ingredient I just cannot get over from the East Coast of Malaysia is tempoyak which is fermented durian. And so I’m using this
opportunity at the market. They have one stall in the center that has some bottles
of the fermented durian. I gotta buy some and take it home. It’s just too good to miss. And as much as I’d like to
just stay in this market for the rest of the
day and keep on eating, we’re gonna move on because we have a few more things to eat. Nice to meet you. And yeah, you can get lots of, you can buy tempoyak and
budu to bring home with you. Two life-changing ingredients. From here we are driving to again, a little bit outside of town. And we’re going to eat
another rice and mixed dishes, especially vegetables that you eat with the budu fermented fish sauce. (upbeat music) Not too long. About a 20-minute drive
outside of Kota Bharu and we’re in a place called Pasir Mas. Hello. Nasi ulam?
– Yes. – Okay, great. (speaking foreign language) Ikan bacar. Wow. So first you walk through the line and they have a bunch of curries. You choose different curries
to go with your rice. Then you come over here
to the condiment station and at the condiment station, one of the main condiments
that you’re gonna wanna eat with the raw vegetables is budu, and with your rice is the
fermented anchovy sauce which is fixed with some chilies and I think green mango. And they have a whole tub of tempoyak which is the fermented durian. Oh, that smells so good. Tempoyak?
– Poyak, yes. – [Mark] Tempoyak, yeah. Very good. I love tempoyak. Yes. – Oh my gosh.
– Dude, they have a tub of it. They have a year’s supply over there. Now with some vegetables and this is really the
ulam, the raw vegetables. These are some, I think
Asian pennywort leaves, there’s some winged beans. Gonna get some winged beans. These are the cashew tree
leaves, one of my favorites. Gotta get a bunch of cucumbers and then. (upbeat music) Oh yes, yes. (speaking foreign language) Okay, it’s there?
– Yes. – Okay, thank you very much.
– You’re welcome. (speaking foreign language) – So it’s just kinda free for all. You just grab and take whatever you want and then they look at what you’ve got and then they calculate
everything you took. Add that all up, depending
on your portion size and whatever you took, and
then you pay at the end. Again, a spectacular restaurant. The staff are so friendly and the owners of the
restaurant are so nice. You gotta have rice and
you gotta have the ulam, the raw vegetables. So that’s what this meal is. But then of course, we got a fish. We got some shrimp curry, we got some shells. We got some sup perut which is, it appears to be a stomach, a variety of stomachs
in a white milky broth. Oh, and then tempoyak which you will not forget you got this because you can, the entire table and
restaurant smells of it. And it smells incredible. Budu is an amazing sauce
and they put chilies in it. They put green mango. I think I’m gonna just start with some, let’s just try that budu. And I’ve got a wad of, these
are cashew tree leaves. Mmm! I’m gonna get a little bit of that mango just to taste the budu first. Mmm! Mmm! Ooh! The cashew tree leaves
are, those are chalky. – That’s a flavor. – That melts right there immediately. Okay, let’s move into the ikan bakar. It has kind of a shell. Peel back. That’s a really hard shell outer skin. I think this is like a tuna and then you can see that
sambal stuffed inside of there. Grab a piece of that fish. Now you dip that into the budu. Stick that onto my rice. Then you can kinda mix in. You can go in with the chili and you can see immediately
how the budu sauce just, it stains the rice in that red red-orange color. Grab a chili on this bite
with some of the fish. (upbeat music) Mmm! Mmm! Oh. With the grilled fish, with
the budu, with the chili. Mmm! Mmm! There’s this amazing flavor. And such a complexity of
fermented fish and salt. That’s umami. We gotta make the next step though. I’m gonna scoop some of this tempoyak. (Joel laughing) It’s unbelievable. It’s like, nothing compares to it. This is the next level. Tempoyak with budu. Fermentation on top of fermentation. Okay, I’m gonna take some of that. I got a cucumber handy here. I’m gonna just load up my cucumber with some tempoyak and budu. Oh, and put a chili on top of that. Oh, that is a bite. Cheers, man! (laughing) Wow! Mmm! That is a ripened durian tempoyak. I’ve said this about 25 times so far since being in Malaysia
in every single video that we’d have tempoyak
in this entire trip which has been every single day. But tempoyak is the
ultimate shock and then joy. Shock and joy. That’s what it is. Shock and joy every single bite. This is some unripe banana. (upbeat music) (laughing) Oh, wow! That’s chalky! The shrimp curry. I think it’s best to add
this to your rice, yeah? Some of the shrimp curry now. And then also some of the, I think I’ll just take
a mix of all the dishes. The little snail shells
in coconut milk again. (upbeat music) Stomach, tripe. Tripe. Whoa, that’s soupy. Pour onto this side of the rice. Some more of that soup,
that milky milky soup. And then also what you can do is take some of the budu and tempoyak and sort of put it into your rice so that you can mix it with everything. (upbeat music) Okay, I’ll try that. Try that tripe. Mmm! Mmm! Oh. I got some tempoyak remains on that bite. So soft. It’s not even chewy at all. It’s so tender. Okay, I’m gonna try that shrimp next. It’s just fully coated in
coconut milk-based curry with turmeric I believe,
making it so yellow. (upbeat music) I think that’s a freshwater shrimp. And then what you do
with these little guys is you just suck them out. Mmm! I only got half of it. (Joel laughing) Okay, I got ’em. Very small. (Joel laughing) Just like a tiny, little, micro bite. But really good. – And the sucking action,
if there’s any curry liquid. It vaporizes it onto your tongue and you can really get a burst of flavor even though it’s just a tiny amount. It’s awesome. (upbeat music) – Scooping in with this big piece of fish. Get that tempoyak onto the rice. Onto the rice. And you kinda wanna really
mix everything together. Get that fish mixed in with the rice, with the tempoyak, with
the budu, with the chili. All of that in one, just ultra powerful, ultra
satisfying bite of your lifetime. (upbeat music) And let me tell you, that is a bite of your lifetime. (upbeat music) We’re hanging out with the owner now. (speaking foreign language) – Welcome. (speaking foreign language) – It was an amazing meal. She’s so nice. Again, just so welcoming. So hospitable. D’umi. – [Owner] D’umi. – D’umi Nasi Ulam.
– Ulam. – It’s in Pasir Mas.
– Pasir Mas. – D’umi.
– Yes. – Okay, we’ve got one more place to go which is actually just down the road. Probably even walking distance from here. But it’s in the same area. Famous for a special
type of grilled chicken which is from Kelantan. When we pulled up here I was afraid they were closed because it looks really
quiet and the grill is empty but luckily they are open. They have one tray left. I think they open in the morning and kinda sell out by the afternoon. So we’re just here in time to taste it even though the grill is not full. They got two skewers. They’re reheating them for us. This is called ayam percik. It’s from Kelantan. It’s a local Kelantanese
style of grilled chicken with coconut cream barbecue sauce. (upbeat music) (speaking foreign language) Once it comes up the grill then they ladle on some more
of the coconut barbecue sauce. It’s very light in color. There you can see a little
bit of chilies in there. It’s almost orange but you can see the creamy
richness of the coconut. We’re gonna take some to go. But we gotta sample it right now. I’m just glad that we got here and they still have a few pieces
left that we could sample. – Mhmm! (Joel laughing) – [Mark and Joel] Mmm! – It’s so rich. It’s sweet and nutty. It’s really good though. And smoky. – That sauce that he dipped. The fresh addition of sauce was awesome. – I think they must add a couple of layers of the coconut cream
sauce as they grill it. So those layers caramelize
onto the chicken. But then you’ve also got some
fresh coconut barbecue sauce on top of it. It’s so similar but slightly
different to the gai golae, same similar style of coconut
milk barbecue sauce chicken that we eat in Southern
Thailand very frequently. And as I was taking that bite, he came over, I didn’t even see him, but he added another ladle
of the barbecue sauce all over it. (speaking foreign language) Thank you. (speaking foreign language) It’s the middle of the afternoon and we have come to the end of this Kelantanese
Malay food tour in Kota and surrounding Kota Bharu, Kelantan. I’ll have all the information
in the description box below. It’s been an amazing day and I love it here. It’s so chilled out, it’s so relaxed. And the people, I cannot emphasize that enough. Okay, I’m gonna say goodbye
from Kelantan, Kota Bharu. I wanna say a big thank you
for watching this video. Please remember to give it a
thumbs up if you enjoyed it. Leave a comment below,
I’d love to hear from you. And if you’re not already
subscribed, click subscribe now. And also click that little bell icon so that you get notified of
the next video that I publish. Thanks again for watching. Goodbye from Kelantan. See you on the next video.

100 thoughts on “Street Food Malaysia – NASI KERABU + Malay Food Tour in Kelantan, Malaysia!

Leave a Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *