How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet with Two Handles | The Home Depot

How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet with Two Handles | The Home Depot


Begin by clearing out all of the
products and supplies under the sink. You should also have a shallow pan
and a couple of old towels standing by to catch any water. And since much of the job
will be done on your back, a pillow will make the
work easier to bear. If you have an electrical
outlet beneath your sink, turn off power to it before
you remove the old faucet. And restore power only after you’ve
tested the new faucet for leaks. Since you have to work
upside down under the sink, be sure to wear safety glasses to
protect your eyes from falling debris. You may need to use a
flashlight for better visibility inside a deep cabinet. Reach in and shut off the hot
and cold water supply valves by turning them clockwise. Depending upon the type of valve, this
may take anywhere from a quarter turn to several turns until the
water is completely off. If you don’t have stop valves
already installed in your bathroom, you’ll need to turn off the
water to the entire house. You might consider installing
them under the sink so you can turn off the
water easily in the future. Valves that haven’t been used
in a while may be hard to turn. If you have difficulty, try
using a rag or a pair of pliers to improve your grip. With the water turned
off, open up the faucet handles to relieve any
pressure in the lines. To remove the old faucet, you’ll
first need to go under the sink and disconnect the supply lines
that run from the faucet down to the hot and cold valves. Each supply line is connected to the
corresponding valve by a threaded nut. Use an adjustable wrench to remove each
nut by turning it counterclockwise. As you do, make sure
you stabilize the water pipe while you loosen the supply lines. Otherwise, you could compromise
any connections behind the cabinet. It’s a good idea to have
the pan ready to collect the small amount of water that will
drain out from the disconnected lines. Once you’ve disconnected the
water supply line on one side, repeat the process for the other side. If the valve drips even though the
handle is turned completely off, it means you have a faulty valve. You’ll need to turn off the water to
the entire house in order to replace it. You’ll need to take out the old
supply line connections to your faucet before you can remove it. On this two-handle center set
faucet, the two water supply lines are connected directly to
the hot and cold valves. Because the mounting nut securing
the faucet are installed first, you’ll need to unscrew the supply line
connections before you can remove them. If you’re removing a single handle
faucet, all of your water connections will be part of the spout assembly
since there are no hot and cold handles. On faucets like this, where the supply
lines are built into the faucet– any mounting hardware is made to
slide directly over the lines. Finally, your old kitchen
faucet may have a diverter. On these faucets, there
is a separate supply line that connects between the
spout and a side sprayer. You’ll need to disengage
this connection before you can remove the faucet and sprayer. One of the difficulties in
taking out the old faucet is reaching up into this tight
space and gaining enough leverage to remove the connections. There are a couple of important
tools that will make this job easier. A basin wrench contains a ratcheting
head with teeth designed to grip hard to reach retaining
knots behind the sink. The handle pivots 90 degrees
allowing you to turn it from below. This faucet and sink installer
is a multi-purpose tool designed for several under
the sink applications. After unscrewing the nuts
connecting the supply lines to the hot and cold valves,
use the basin wrench to take off the nut connecting
the diverter to the sprayer hose. If you’re positive you won’t
be using the old faucet again, you can cut the line with
a pipe or tubing cutter. Once you’ve disconnected all of
the water lines under the sink, you’re ready to remove
the mounting hardware. The old faucet will be connected
to the underside of the cabinet by some type of mounting hardware. A single handle faucet will
typically have the mounting hardware connected to a single shank that
contains the hot and cold supply lines. For a two-handle center
set faucet, the mounts will usually be found on the
hot and cold valve bodies. You’ll need to remove all
of the mounting hardware in order to remove the faucet. If any nuts are mounting hardware
is rusted or difficult to remove, apply a penetrating oil– like,
PBR blaster– to loosen it. Give it time to soak in. And you may need more than one
application before you can get it off. With the mounting hardware removed,
the faucet should lift out. You may need to apply pressure
to break any caulk seal. When you’re finished,
clean the area thoroughly around the sink with an approved cleaner
before installing your new faucet. The number and placement of the holes
in your countertop or drop in sink will determine the type
of faucet you can put in. You may have anywhere
from one to four holes. The fourth hole is typically used
for a sprayer or soap dispenser. The distance between the
holes is called the spread. And you can determine
your spread by measuring between the centers of
the three main holes. An 8 inch spread on
center is the most common and is necessary to fit
most center set faucets. A center set faucet is any one
where the handles and spout are all part of one single unit. A two-handle center set has
separate hot and cold handles that are connected to the base. These fit cleanly into
the outside holes. A single handle center set faucet
has the handle connected directly to the spout. You can either mount it directly to the
countertop for a one hole installation. Or use an escutcheon plate which
will cover up the two outside holes. Another option is a widespread faucet,
where the handles and the faucet are separate individual units. These can be installed with any spread. Finally, if you’d like
a sprayer, but you don’t have enough holes
in your countertop– you might consider a pullout sprayer. These are part of the spout and
they’ll pull out and retract as needed. A center set faucet is any one
where the handles and spout are all part of one single unit. A two-handle center set has
separate hot and cold handles that are connected to the base. These fit cleanly into
the outside holes. A single handle center set faucet
has the handle connected directly to the spout. You can either mount it directly to the
countertop for a one hole installation. Or use an escutcheon plate which
will cover up the two outside holes. Another option is a widespread faucet
where the handles and the faucet are separate individual units. These can be installed with any spread. Finally, if you’d like
a sprayer, but you don’t have enough holes
in your countertop– you might consider a pullout sprayer. These are part of the spout and
they’ll pull out and retract as needed. With the faucet properly
assembled and inserted from above, you’ll need to go below deck for
the remainder of the installation. For most two-handle center set
faucets, the anchoring nuts will go on the underside
of the hot and cold valves. But your faucet may
install differently so consult your owner’s
manual before proceeding. Screw the anchoring nuts
onto the threaded valves and tighten them all the way up
against the underside of the countertop or drop in sink. Before tightening the
nuts down completely, have someone help you make sure
the faucet is lined up properly behind the sink. Hand tighten only and take
care not to crack the surface. A two-handle faucet will typically
have a threaded shank coming out of each of the hot and cold valves. These are usually 1/2
inch threads and you’ll need to connect a flexible
supply line to each one. On a center set faucet– like this one– the water lines
connecting the valves to the spout are built into the faucet itself. But on other types of faucets– like a widespread– the connections
between the valves and the spout are handled below. If your unit does not come
with built in supply lines, make sure you purchase the correct
sized flexible supply lines to fit your particular configuration. Take a small strip of Teflon tape and
wrap it clockwise around the threads. This acts as a lubricant allowing
you to make a tighter connection. Screw the nut on by
hand and then tighten it down as much as you can with a wrench. Do the same step for the other side. Now connect each of the supply lines to
the corresponding water supply valve. This is typically a 3/8
inch fitting in most homes. Wrap the threads of each valve
with a strip of Teflon tape– again, wrapping it clockwise
around the threads. Screw on each nut by hand and tighten
it down with an adjustable wrench. As you do, make sure you secure
the pipe for the water supply valve running into the wall so
you don’t damage any connections. Once you’ve finished one side,
repeat this process for the other. If you wish to install a separate
sprayer in a fourth outside hole, you’ll need to purchase a
faucet that has this feature. You’ll first need to
slide the rubber gasket over the shank of the hose guide. This will help prevent moisture
from collecting underneath. If your sprayer base
requires sealant, apply a 1/4 inch bead of plumber’s putty. Now, insert the hose guide into
the outside hole from below. Screw the connecting nut onto the
shank up against the underside of the countertop or drop in sink. Tighten the nut down with your fingers. Attach the hose to the sprayer head,
then feed the sprayer hose down through the hose guide. Under the sink, connect the other end
of the hose to the faucets diverter. This is a valve on the
underside of the spout assembly. Many connections will just
snap or slide into place. This facet has a quick connect feature
that attaches the end of the hose to the diverter. Your sprayer may attach
differently so consult your owner’s manual for complete instructions. Once you’ve connected the side
sprayer and the water supply lines, turn the water back on at
the hot and cold valves and check out the
operation of your faucet. Carefully check to make
sure there are no leaks. Also, test the sprayer
for proper operation. If you do detect a slight leak,
tighten the connections with a wrench until the leak stops. But be careful not to over tighten. If the leak persists, then turn
off the water, unscrew the nut, and add another layer of
Teflon tape to the threads. Reconnect everything and
turn the water back on. Before proceeding, make sure all
the connections are leak-free. One procedure that’s important to
do after installing your new faucet is flushing the lines. This helps ensure the proper
function of the faucet by removing any debris that may have
accumulated during the manufacturing and installation process. To do this, unscrew the aerator
from the shaft of the faucet. You may be able to do
this by hand or there may be a tool for this
included with your faucet. With the aerator removed, turn
both handles on full blast and let the water run
for about a minute. Then shut off the water
and replace the aerator. By regularly cleaning and
maintaining your faucet, you can ensure that it will
last you for years to come.

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