How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Stripping | Ask This Old House

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Stripping | Ask This Old House



all right Mike we made a little drawing of your kitchen numbering every cabinet and drawer front and we're just going to put a piece of tape with a sharpie number on each one of these let me get everything back to where it belongs when we're all done super all right and like this one here is 12 great you all right if you've got any of these bumpers on the doors or drawers you want to get those off we're going to take the number off but we're going to keep it closed now everything we need actually comes in a kit that you can pick up at the Home Center it's got a couple cans of paint you get that tinted any color you want you chose like an off-white yep perfect it also comes with a D Glosser and this is important because this has got that shiny finish right here little coat of polyurethane we've got to get that off because the new paints not going to stick to it so the D Glosser goes onto a scouring pad so Kevin there's no sanding this is the sanding process essentially right so we are actually going to be taking this off and I'm rubbing this on liberally in the direction of the grain I'm just going to make sure that I go over the entire surface and you're just following the wood grain I am yep and as soon as you've gotten all the scrubbing done with the Glosser the next thing you want to do is actually take a wet rag and we are going to wipe this down try to get off all of that finish and you can see if you've done it right that you've got some color here on the rag that's the finish coming off it's great and once you've got it all cleaned up with the wet rag you want to switch to a clean dry rag and then you want to give it a nice wipe all the way around and you'll know you're done when you have got yourself a nice matte finish all right that's great so now we have to do the same thing to the actual face of these cabinets so you want to do the back side of this one and I'll tackle the I'll get right out all right Wow this finish is really coming on that's the look of progress well that's great sure beats sanding we're using the stove later when you teach me how to cook cover it up so Mike if there's any grease on the cabinet's like there might be around a stove area you actually want to wash it off with soap and water before you D gloss this one looks pretty good right here well I do keep a clean kitchen – I hope so I got a million people watching here look out all right Mike we have finished all of the degaussing everything is dried for an hour we've got some tape up so that we don't get paint where we don't want it and we are ready for the first coat this is actually the bond coat and it's going to be one of two coats that are already the color that you've picked out and we're going to put this right on the cabinet and you've painted before so this is going to be pretty straightforward just remember that you want to go into the direction of the grain which is this way on the door front but on the rail that's going to be this way we're going to complete the panel and then move to the Stiles and rails and this is a paint that's actually specially designed to adhere to this wood and I'm going to let you take it away have you do the doors and then I'll do the frames to the cabinets right great we're using a two inch synthetic brush which is the right tool for this job this color is going to be great it's already a big improvement isn't it absolutely big difference from the inertial finish you got some drips along the edge right here you want to grab these before they dry up well I'm done with this one all right great so we need two hours for this first coat to dry and we'll probably just paint all of the Front's and then we'll paint all the backs sounds great all right Mike we've got the first two codes on their drive got some nice coverage and now the final code is what they call a protective top coat it's essentially a polyurethane it's going to give it a little bit of a sheen and some nice protection all right you get the next one working this is going to dry pretty quickly so make sure that we don't brush over parts that are already drying up and let's just watch out for the drips all right Mike that protective topcoat is on and we actually gave it 12 hours to dry but that is a good look and now we are ready to put all the hardware back we labeled everything so we know exactly where it goes and now we can just get a little assembly line working get all of the hardware in a little easier to fine-tune these with a hand screwdriver just want to make sure they line up all right okay now this is your old pull but you said you want to update this hardware would you choose all a changing color in sighs all right well that was the time to do it so let's get this on there just I got that start it we'll finish it off you think great luck all right let's finish mom okay Mike this is the last drawer all the doors are on what do you think of this transformation you know it's unbelievable it's no longer a 1980s kitchen my Chicago bungalows never looked better yeah I think it's a good look I'm very happy the way that turned out and it was a pleasure working with you well thank you very much

28 thoughts on “How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Stripping | Ask This Old House

  • Anybody that’s going to paint a cabinet door with a inch and a half inch brush that a homeowner would use should be chased out of the this old house union LOL you people have no idea what you’re doing

  • It's better to paint the back sides of doors first, because you will be setting this side down while painting the front. You want the front to have never touched a painters point or be set on something. If a scuff happens on the back, touch it up after the door is put back

  • This is the best way to re finish your cabinets. Call these guys to video it for TV so they do it for you. Genius!

  • No, on edges and fronts use a small cabinet roller. You can better control your application of paint virtually ensuring no wrap around of paint or drips to the back side. Vert handy for the door box and the edges of doors. You can even do that for the front and back and get fairly consistent results with the texture a cabinet roller leaves. However, whenever I look at doors painted by brush or Cabinet roller it is pretty obvious especially the brush. For me, I prefer to just just spray it. It's faster even with the preparation and clean up of the sprayer. You can use an airless sprayer or HVLP. For a professional job, it's worth the investment especially in a kitchen. Good preparation is the key here. The actual spray painting doesn't take that long. Don't worry about making a mistake. Wait until it dries, sand off the mistake and do it again. However, good preparation, reviewing some videos here on youtube on spray painting cabinets and you will have professional looking results.

  • Sorry nothing but a waste of time painting cabinets in my opinion. The finish will never last and need repainting every few years!

  • I bought 3 boxes of the Rust-Oleum for my large kitchen in the linen color, my top coat turned yellow within a week! A bunch of work for nothing. Called Rust-Oleum, sent email with pics per instruction, waited 2 weeks, called back, guy said he didn't get pics, sent again, nothing. $140 down the tubes. I sanded it off and reprimed, painted with dv sureflo. It wasn't tannins that came through, I primed with oil Zinsser. Cabinet kits are crap and Rust-Oleum was awful to deal with.

  • I did a lot of research before I did mine! and I used small roller! it looks like a pro did them!but I am very handy! its the way I grew up!

  • 2.8k ppl are going to be disappointed if they follow this. This is not the way to refinish a kitchen. DIY PRODUCTS GIVE YOU A DIY RESULTS!
    Step 1 You need to clean the wood with a degreaser. Be sure to remove any excess product left over.
    Step 2 Sand everything with at least 220 grit paper and be sure to go with the grain. Use a orbital sander and lightly hand sand the areas a sander cant reach. Also a mouse sander for then corners
    Step 3 Remove all dust
    Step 4 use an oil based primer (I have yet to find a water based primer that will hide bleed through especially on oak) use a brush to cut in and a foam roller where you can. I spray everything but you can still use this method. Apply 2 coats per side, oil based with dry quicker than water based. Humidity is always a factor so drying times will be different for everyone. Wait a min of 8h before painting to allow the primer to "off gas"
    Step 5 Use a product called envirolack, it's a waster based polly acrylic paint (it's used on floors and stairs. You can brush it, roll it and spray it (its will need to be thin to no lore than 10%) this paint DOES NOT NEED A TOP/CLEAR COAT, ITS AN "ALL-IN-ONE" PRODUCT
    When applying primers and paint always sand between coats with a 400g sanding sponge. Sand paper at even 600g can be too course when "hand sanding. The sponge allows you to sand without worrying about sanding through the primer/paint.

  • Oh no! Kevin, Kevin!!! Tell me you're not painting natural wood kitchen doors! Why not re-varnish and preserve the doors instead?

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